“I’m not kidding. People die because of this. We have to go. Now.” Our guide wasn’t smiling.
Chastened, my friend CJ and I stopped giggling. Yes, it was ridiculous to have hiked halfway down the Grand Canyon in August with just one bottle of water between us, but the time for laughing would come later . . . if we survived.
The night before, our guide JK had said, “We will have plenty of water.” CJ took this to mean we would have plenty of water without her contribution. Wrong.
CJ announced her lack of water when we reached Cedar Ridge , a lovely plateau on the South Kaibob Trail. Here we had been going to sit and rest and enjoy the view (for which no adjectives suffice) before hiking back up the steep, rocky trail. At first JK and I thought CJ was kidding, but quickly realized that was not the case.
That’s when JK turned deadly serious. “Put on your packs, we’ve got to get out NOW, before the heat gets any worse.” This was JK’s worst nightmare, hiking at noon on a summer day with neophytes who didn’t bring water. But there we all were.
I Could Just Fly and Meet You There
Blessedly, the grueling march out has somewhat faded from my memory. I remember being dizzy. I remember my thigh muscles burning. I remember arguing with JK several times — once when I kept trying to take off my hat because I was sweltering, and she scolded me, and once when I was trying to rest, and she wouldn’t let me. “We’ll rest in the shade up ahead, not here. I’m not stopping and I’m not leaving you here.”
The worst was when she tried to make me eat an energy bar. I remember that switchback in the trail vividly, the burning heat on my back, the acrid smell of dry rock mixed with the dank scent of manure from the pack horses we had just passed.
“You must eat this,” she said, when I told her I was so light-headed I felt like I could fly. She probably thought I was going to leap into the abyss.
“I will die if I eat,” I said. “I will throw up, I really will. I can’t.” She spoke calmly and insistently, as you would to a five-year-old, and somehow persuaded me to eat the dang thing. I did not throw up. I kept walking.
One Step at a Time
This week’s WordPress Photo Challenge is “Show us what endurance means to you.” For me, endurance means taking one step at a time, whether you are hiking, recovering from an addiction, or journeying through grief or fear or illness. Just one step.
So here you have it. Me, nearing the end of our hike up from Cedar Point:

Endurance
Sep 28, 2014 @ 00:04:08
Just arrived at the home of the stern JK and had such fun hearing the story from her. I’ll be telling some stories of my own at the end of this week, although I hope the theme will be “flow” or “beauty” or something. I don’t think anyone relishes in advance testing their capacity for endurance. Your post was fun and timely for Earl (of the titanium knees) and me on the cusp of our meanders below the rim.
Sep 28, 2014 @ 01:12:17
Have a great trip, below the rim and on the ensuing road trip. Enjoy! Don’t forget your water. 🙂
Sep 25, 2014 @ 20:15:32
When Nuc and I hiked, they had installed water points every 1.5 miles. Maybe it was a different trail… or maybe it was in response to people like you 🙂
Sep 25, 2014 @ 21:36:17
Wow – I’m sure they weren’t on our trail, cause our guide knew her stuff. Great idea – I wonder where they get the water from?
Sep 25, 2014 @ 13:39:20
Melanie,
I did bring water….but just one bottle and JK said it wouldn’t be enough for the length of the hike she had planned. Trudging back up hill was so tough that I wonder if we would have made it back up at all even if we had had enough water to have hiked further down as originally intended. But we made it and all was well.
Sep 25, 2014 @ 13:54:47
I didn’t remember that we planned to hike even farther down. Yipes! Good thing we didn’t. I do remember the father and son who stopped and gave us some of their water. Angels. 🙂